Cachicamo

Childhood memories are notoriously deceptive. I had a friend who painted his childhood with broad, black strokes. Gothic does not come close to describing his lurid remembrances. Years later, talking with other members of his family or with his friends, I came to see his memory wasn’t totally fair. From all appearances and recollections of others who had no reason to misrepresent, his childhood was not so terrible.

On the other hand, I’ve known someone, a decent fellow, whose recollections are of wonderful, funny, and happy times of childhood. Yet, in that case, I know, for a fact, having lived nearby and in “real time”, that all was not well. But his remembrances were of broad rose strokes and I certainly would not attempt to convince him otherwise.

I cannot objectively say where I fall in that spectrum but my recollections are happy and when talking with my mother and parents’ friends, as well as perusing old correspondence, it appears my memory is not far off the mark. Anecdotes are for the most part confirmed or, when modified, never beyond recognition. 

One of those reminiscences is of my father and the Venezuelan cachicamo.

As brief background: when my father was a young man, before he went to Venezuela, he was a member of a team of agents who worked for the United States army. In those days, the early 40s, part of their training was on the Harvey Firestone (founder of Firestone Tire and Rubber Company) property in Miami Beach, Florida. About a decade later, the Firestone estate would serve as construction headquarters during the building of the famous Fontainebleau Hotel until the estate was torn down to make way for the hotel’s famous gardens and pool.

Early in the mornings, his fellow agents would see my father go out on the water where he’d start tossing jelly fish out of the way to make room for a morning swim. Henceforth, they called him “Tarzan”.

A few years later he worked for the Bethlehem Steel Company in Venezuela, first in Palúa for a few years and then El Pao for the rest of his career at the company. While in Palúa my father would sometimes dive off the ore bridge into the Orinoco River below. This was an astonishing feat not only to his fellow employees but to the many locals who’d gather along the shore to watch him. His “Tarzan” nickname was well earned.

When I was about 8 or 9 years old, I recall a trip with my father to the American Consulate in Puerto La Cruz, on the north coast of the country. This was, for me, an exciting drive, usually overnight, including a ferry crossing over the Orinoco River, endless miles on the Venezuelan Llanos, dizzying heights on the mountain ranges hugging the spectacular coastline, and astonishing views of some of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

(Although Puerto La Cruz is in the state of Anzoátegui, it borders the state of Sucre and that is where many of my memories reside, principally due to that state’s magnificent beaches.)

About two hours after ferrying across the Orinoco, we saw a cachicamo scurrying across the highway. My father slammed on the brakes, pulled off the road, disembarked and ran after the critter. I remember a car whizzing past but not so fast that I could not discern its driver and passengers looking at my father, first in wonderment and then in howling laughter, which, of course, I could not hear.

He caught the creature and placed him in a box he had on the back seat floor. We continued on our journey. And heard loud scratching, which we at first assumed was that of the bored animal doodling the inside of the box. Then as a car passed us the driver blew his horn to catch our attention.  As we looked over he signaled to our rear. We looked to find the cachicamo now against the back window scurrying back and forth. It had to have jumped up there only a second or two prior. We stopped, opened the door and shooed the beast out. We then inspected the damage his scratching had done. We had picked him up in the Llanos and kicked him out in the high mountains. Hope he did OK.

Back in El Pao, on another occasion, my father again jumped out of the car to catch another cachicamo. This time critter and human both slid, scratched, and rolled down a steep embankment at the foot of which my father grabbed the animal and carried it back up the jungle hill, slipping, sliding, falling, but not letting his prey escape.

The cachicamo, like the armadillo, has little hair and can weigh over 20 pounds and measure 5 feet long (see photo below). Whoever attempts to catch it must be very much aware of its long and devastating claws. (The Venezuela Cachicamo Gigante is another story altogether which will be for another day.) This large rodent eats ants, worms, larvae, and also meat. And, yes, folks eat it: they tell us it tastes like chicken, beef, rabbit, and pork. I’m not sure I understand how it can taste like all those meats, nor, at this remove, am I aiming to find out.

Mr. and Mrs. H, good friends of my parents had told my father that they would be happy to prepare any cachicamo he’d bring them. So he dutifully slaughtered the critter and took it up the hill to them and they made plans for dinner later that week.

For some reason I was up that night when my parents returned from their dinner at Mr. and Mrs. H’s home. As my father tossed his suit coat on the sofa, he said with a hint of exasperation, “Remind me to never again catch a cachicamo!” To which my mother replied, “Oh, sure. You’re a new man.” 

The next morning I was regaled with the story.

As they drove up the hill to Mr. and Mrs. H’s home the night before, my father was in eager anticipation of the Venezuelan dish that the lady of the house was preparing from the game he had caught that week. They parked the car, walked up the front steps, and knocked. Mr. H exuberantly opened the door and, with great alacrity, ushered them in while endlessly chatting on how happy Mrs. H was in preparing and cooking that night’s pièce de résistanceCachicamo on the Shell.

What Mr. H did not seem to notice was the stench that had greeted my progenitors when the front door had opened. “What is that smell?” they had both thought but could not ask out loud just then.

Mrs. H came out through the swinging kitchen door in high spirits and pulled them in to observe the final touches on that night’s cuisine. To their horror, they realized the fetid aroma originated from the cooking area. 

But, again, they said nothing.

The stew of cachicamo, who by now was the object of silent maledictions from my mother, was placed, in all its glory, heaping hot, and in its shell, at the center of the table. And all were joyously served therefrom.

My father bravely ate his full dish. An act of courage and manliness which, after leaving, my mother rebuked: “If you knew that smell came from our main course, why on earth would you eat it so quickly and thereby give opportunity to be offered more?! Not even Tarzan eat so fast?”

“Oh, Charles! I can see you really like this! Here, have some more!” Mrs. H had exclaimed heartily and joyfully over my father’s courteous demurrals. But his “Oh, no thank you’s!” were too late: she slopped another heap of local color on his plate and he, having been taught since childhood to always eat what is served, dutifully and painfully ate the whole thing.

My parents’ theory, most reasonable, is that Mrs. H had neglected to have the shell properly boiled. Not to put too fine a point on this, the cachicamo being a rodent, the smell that greeted the visitors that night was that of a dead rat.

Many years have passed since that event. Even now, as I write this, I smile and even chuckle, holding the loud laughter in.

As a family, that became one of our favorite stories. I shared it with my youngest sons just three days ago as we drove to church. They too howled with laughter.

Thank you, father and mother, for a happy childhood.

Harvey S. Firestone (1868-1938). His Miami Beach estate, later the Fontainebleau, is in the background
Fontainebleau Hotel today
Cachicamo (very similar to the Texas armadillo)
Bethlehem Steel port of Palúa. Camp housing in the foreground. Note the ore bridge to the right. As a young man, my father used to dive off that bridge to the astonishment of both his fellow employees and the locals. By the way, I confirmed this as a young adult by asking a number of folks in El Pao, San Félix, and Palúa.
La Chalana (ferry). This is actually the ferry which used to cross the Caroní River from San Félix to Puerto Ordaz. I was unable to find a photo of the San Félix ferry crossing the Orinoco River for that era. But the setting was very similar to the above.
This is the “chalana” currently in use in San Félix on the Orinoco. I am told that to get to it is a very difficult journey on a heavily deteriorated road full of holes and trash and sewage. Despite this, many still use this means to travel between the states of Bolivar and Monagas.
One of the numerous beaches along the Sucre coastline (north coast of eastern Venezuela)
My father and I on the Orinoco River bound for Puerto De Hierro, circa 1962.
My father and his catch, a Sábalo. This species is found both in the coastal ocean waters as well as far inland on major rivers, such as the Orinoco. The Sábalo can grow up to 8 feet and weigh as much as 330 pounds.

The Power of the Powerless I

In 1978, Václav Havel (1936-2011) wrote an essay, The Power of the Powerless, from which I take the title for this and later posts.

Havel was born into a wealthy family, and that made him an outcast when the Communists took over 12 years later. He eventually became president of Czechoslovakia (her last), and, after the country’s dissolution, was elected president of the new Czech Republic (her first). But he is best known, not as a politician, but as an essayist and thinker who alerts his readers and hearers as to the dangers of totalitarianism, whether in its Fascist, Communist, Tin Pot, “Post-Totalitarian”, or democratic manifestations. And, most importantly, he eloquently demonstrates that the way for a people to defeat the brutal despotism of unjust domination by political and military elites — be they “soft” or “hard”, “democratically elected” or “installed by force” — is to “live by the truth.”

Truth is universal, and “historical experience teaches us that any meaningful point of departure in an individual’s life usually has an element of universality about it. In other words, it is not something partial, accessible only to a restricted community, and not transferable to any other. On the contrary, it must be potentially accessible to everyone.” By “everyone” he includes those doing the oppressing. His essay does not seek to proselytize religiously, but by “universality” he gives Christianity as an example. An example I wholly embrace.

The essay was written “hurriedly” (his word) but upon careful reading one marvels at his insights, clearly developed from a lifetime of social, economic, political, and religious oppression and upheaval. He is one of those rare intellectuals who not only earned the appellation but did not besmirch it with despicable, self-absorbed behavior and utter disregard for his neighbor. 

Paul Johnson’s great book, The Intellectuals, details the lives of intellectuals who have had outsized, deleterious influence on the course of history, especially the 20th and 21st centuries. Men like Karl Marx and Jean-Paul Sartre, Cyril Connolly and Kenneth Tynan, and many others are examined and when one puts the book down, one wonders how people fell for these sordid characters whose fruit in their own lives surely portended evil for the rest of us. I wish Mr. Johnson had written a companion book on intellectuals who did lead admirable lives. Men like Václav Havel. 

Open totalitarian regimes — Castro’s Cuba, Mao’s China, Khmer Rouge’s Cambodia, Hitler’s Germany, and many others — “post-totalitarian” regimes — Eastern Europe in 1978 — democratic regimes — Western Europe and the Americas — and points between all have a “hard” tendency to concentrate power and exercise it over their peoples. 

“This is why life in the system is so thoroughly permeated with hypocrisy and lies: government by bureaucracy is called popular government; the working class is enslaved in the name of the working class; the complete degradation of the individual is presented as his ultimate liberation; depriving people of formation is called making it available; the use of power to manipulate is called the public control of power, and the arbitrary abuse of power is called observing the legal code; the repression of culture is called its development; the expansion of imperial influence is presented as support for the oppressed; the lack of free expression becomes the highest form of freedom; farcical elections become the highest form of democracy; banning independent thought becomes the most scientific of world views; military occupation becomes fraternal assistance.”

“Because the regime is captive to its own lies, it must falsify everything. It falsifies the past. It falsifies the present, and it falsifies the future. It falsifies statistics. It pretends not to posses an omnipotent and unprincipled police apparatus. It pretends to respect human rights. It pretends to persecute no one. It pretends to fear nothing. It pretends to pretend nothing.”

“Individuals need not believe all these mystifications, but they must behave as if they did, or they must at least tolerate them in silence, or get along well with those who work with them. For this reason, however, they must live within a lie. They need not accept the lie. It is enough for them to have accepted their life with it and in it. For by this very fact, individuals confirm the system, fulfill the system, make the system, are the system.”

I invite you to re-read the foregoing three paragraphs and marvel with me that it was written in 1978 when Americans were offended at Alexander Solzhenitsyn for having pointed out similar thoughts at his Harvard address and was booed by the intellectuals there. The then First Lady sniffed, “He doesn’t understand Americans.” Even many “conservatives” were put off. 

I was not one of them, although, I confess, I saw the issues he addressed as portending future evils. It was years later, upon re-reading the speech that I realized he saw them — correctly — as present evils. And today, their manifestation is such that only the most obtuse can honestly deny them.

Václav Havel (1936-2011)
Paul Johnson (B. 1928)
The Intellectuals, by Paul Johnson
In book form; also available online. 

That’s For Somebody Else To Do (or, That’s Not My Job)

Professionals are taught never to use such phrases. At least I was trained thusly in my halcyon Arthur Andersen years when an oft-used expression was, “You can take the man out of Arthur Andersen but you cannot take Arthur Andersen out of the man.” As one progressed in the firm, one took on tasks easily characterized as “not my job” but one did not think in those terms. One tackled the assignment as best he or she could. And we learned along the way.

The late Elmer Kelton’s The Good Old Boys (1978), utters that phrase in a humble context which resonates with many of us. The novel is set in West Texas at the turn of the 20th century, 1906 to be precise. On the surface, it is a novel about a cowboy, Hewey Calloway, who appreciates people and places more than new contraptions and who struggles to understand the, to him, monomaniac interest of younger people in things like automobiles and big cities. Hewey is facing a rapidly dimming way of life and unwilling to step onto the newer way of doing things that was breaking on the horizon. Below the surface, the novel tells us that there is a Hewey in many of us.

Along the way, Kelton uses his novel to reflect upon some things that ought to never change. The phrase shows up in one of those scenes:

Cotton incredulously demanded, “Uncle Hewey, you mean all he asked you to do was to go over and ride on another street?”

“He didn’t ask me to. He told me I had to. There’s a difference.”

“If he’d asked you to, would you have done it?”

“Sure, I always try to get along with people.”

Cotton shook his head. “I don’t understand that at all.”

Hewey wasn’t sure how to explain it; it seemed so natural that no explanation ought to be necessary. “I’m a free-born American. I even been to war. I’d be a taxpayer, and proud to say it, if I owned anything to pay taxes on. I’ve got a right to ride down any street anywhere in this country that anybody else can. Somebody tells me I got to get off, and I do it, pretty soon I won’t have that right anymore.”

Cotton wasn’t satisfied. Hewey didn’t know how to satisfy him.

Wes Wheeler saw Hewey’s chagrin. He looked at Cotton. “Son, I’m a peace officer. It’s my job to enforce the law. I’m not allowed to make the law; that’s for somebody else to do. If I go to makin’ it, I can make it anything I want it to be. First thing you know I’ll use it to help me and my friends. I’ll use it to hurt people I don’t like. If that ever happens, I’m dangerous. That marshall up yonder, he was goin’ beyond his rightful authority. That makes him dangerous. You let people like that get away with it, pretty soon they’ll take you over.”

I last visited Venezuela in 2005. Upon arrival I was informed that my paperwork was such that I would not be permitted to leave the country. Incredulously, I spoke to a fiery US embassy official who confirmed to me that another midnight decree had been recently issued by El Comandante and that I had been entangled by such. However, she was adamant that she would move heaven and earth to get me out. The details are for another day, but the point is that living under decrees or mandates is dangerous and tyrannical.

I have not been back to the country of my birth since, but it is not for a lack of desire.

And now, for over 20 months, has anyone noticed that we Americans have also been living under decrees and mandates? Are we not allowed to say so? I have written a major airline asking them why their employees keep telling us we must submit to “federal law” when no such law has been enacted, having been passed by both houses of congress and signed by the president. That would make it a “law”. What we have now, is a mandate. Or an order. Call it what you will, but it is not law.

Wes Wheeler’s comments are worth remembering as we ponder our situation: “It’s my job to enforce the law. I’m not allowed to make the law; that’s for somebody else to do. If I go to makin’ it, I can make it anything I want it to be. First thing you know I’ll use it to help me and my friends. I’ll use it to hurt people I don’t like. If that ever happens, I’m dangerous. … You let people like that get away with it, pretty soon they’ll take you over.”

Mandates and liberty are not compatible.

Whether in Venezuela or here.

Elmer Kelton (1926-2009)
The above quote has been attributed to others besides Twain, including Voltaire, George Bernard Shaw, and Jean-Jacques Rousseau. It is appropriate to today’s post: promulgating mandates and decrees, whether by mayors, governors, presidents, or comandantes, smacks of man playing God. And, as per Kelton, “You let people like that get away with it, pretty soon they’ll take you over.”