Singapore II

I had originally expected to post twice from notes I took about a decade or so ago during or shortly after my visits to Singapore. However, having found more notes than I recalled having written and seeing that they contain history that is relevant but not well known, I will be posting a few more items on Singapore.

My notes do not pretend to be scholarly from a historical, sociological, or any other “expert” perspective; they were written by a layman who appreciates the subject and believes it to be worth remembering and pondering.

While working in Saudi Arabia, I had the honor and privilege of meeting the Singaporean ambassador stationed there at the time. He and his wife were very gracious to me and were intrigued to hear how all my narratives centered around the historical sites and the stories thereof and some of my encounters there. They appreciated that my interests were similar to theirs. 

He said, “It is unusual for visitors to care much about these matters.” To which I replied, “And that is unfortunate, isn’t it.” He agreed.

His grandfather was Scotch and had died in the prison camps. His father survived and so did his house. But the roof had damage from Japanese shelling. As a late adolescent, he asked his father why he had never gotten around to repairing the roof. “Because I don’t want to ever forget what happened,” was the terse reply.

The ambassador told me about the visit by Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher to the Kranji War Memorial and Cemetery in 1985. He was a young member of the diplomatic corps at the time and he formed part of the delegation accompanying Mrs. Thatcher. He told me what impressed him was that most visitors of state just go to the memorial in the center of the place. Mrs. Thatcher did that, of course. But then she began to walk all around the cemetery, pausing long before the many tombstones, many with crosses engraved therein, and reading names and dates of birth and dates of death, and sometimes commenting, “He was only 18,” or “He was 22,” etc.

He asked me if I had also walked around. I told him I had indeed, and that I was deeply moved.

Then he offered to lend me his books. I requested Thompson’s The Battle For Singapore, because I was about to buy that one during my last trip there, but had hesitated and lost the opportunity. He lent it to me [a year later, I bought my own copy after returning to Texas].

The Kranji Memorial (also known as The Singapore Memorial) has over 24,000 names of Allied men and women inscribed on its walls. They memorialize those for whom no remains or graves could be identified, plus those killed in Malaya, where their bodies remained. 

British, Australian, Indian, Chinese, Sri Lankan, Netherland, and New Zealand soldiers, marines, airmen, nurses, and more are buried or memorialized here, as are those who were killed in the Singapore Hospital in the early days of the Japanese occupation. Over 400 of these latter are memorialized in a mass grave.

The courage of the men and women during those terrible days is exemplified by the actions of nurses who were evacuated shortly before the British surrender. This is excerpted from The Battle for Singapore.

“One of the surgeons, Colonel Thomas Hamilton, waved goodbye to the remaining nurses who were leaving…that day in HMS Vyner Brooke. None of them had wanted to go. ‘Smiling wistfully, they fluttered tiny handkerchiefs to us from the open doors of the ambulances as orderlies and doctors lined the drive to cheer them on their way,’ he says. …. From the hospital lawn that night he watched the Vyner Brooke, an ugly little coastal freighter, sail out of the harbor against the backdrop of a vivid scarlet sunset.”

[The captain managed to elude the Japanese for a couple days, but on the 14th of February his ship was spotted by 6 Japanese planes. The ship was bombed and machine-gunned despite displaying the red cross of a hospital ship. On one machine-gun run, the nurses ran to the deck and threw themselves over the wounded soldiers who could not move. All survivors had to abandon ship. Vivian Bullwinkle, 26-years old, from South Australia, kept a diary from which Mr. Thompson gleaned some of his descriptions.]

[A great uncle, brother of my grandfather, was a medic whose hospital ship was strafed and sunk, along with hundreds of wounded soldiers and a score of nurses off the Philippines in 1942 — RMB]

[Matron Drummond was another survivor, who had been wounded, but helped ashore. The survivors were joined the next day by 20 British soldiers from another stricken vessel. “Without food, clothing, or medicine, the group elected to surrender….” A naval officer went off in search of a Japanese patrol.]

“On 16 February the naval officer returned with a Japanese patrol…. The Japanese officer ordered those who could walk, including Chief Officer W. S. Sedgeman and Second Engineer J. J. Miller, to march around a small headland, where they were bayoneted. The wounded were then bayoneted on the beach, although one English private crawled unseen into the undergrowth after being stabbed through the chest.

“The 22 nurses, including the wounded Matron Drummond, were ordered to walk into the sea. It was around midday and the water was warm and tranquil, the palm-fringed setting idyllic. Matron Drummond, supported between two nurses, said, ‘Chin up, girls, I’m proud of you and I love you all.’ When the water reached waist height, the Japanese opened fire with a machine gun, raking them back and forth from behind. All of the nurses were killed except Vivian Bullwinkle, who was shot above the left hip. The bullet knocked her over and she floated for some time before raising her head. ‘All my colleagues had been swept away and there were no Japs on the beach,’ she says. After passing out again, she came to on the beach. ‘I was so cold that my only thought was to find some warm spot to die. I dragged myself up to the edge of the jungle and lay in the sun where I must have slept for hours….’

“The following morning Vivian had just enough strength to find fresh water in a spring close to the beach, which kept her alive for the next 48 hours. On the third day, she went down to the lifeboat, looking for food, and heard a voice call out, ‘Where have you been, nurse?’ Private Kinsley, already wounded by shrapnel, had been bayoneted in the chest but the blade had missed his heart. Vivian dressed his wounds and helped him into the jungle.”

[They eventually made it to Muntok (Sumatra, south of Singapore) and, making sure their wounds were covered, they told the Japanese they had been shipwrecked, arousing no suspicions. They were imprisoned and, in hushed tones Vivian told her story to a few other nurses. She knew she would be executed if the Japanese discovered she had survived the massacre. Private Kingsley was placed in a crude hospital but died a few days later.]

Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher visits Kranji in 1985 (Source: Ministry of Information and the Arts)

Young man dead at 22 in 1943. Memorial at Kranji Cemetery

Kranji Memorial and Cemetery, Source: Wikimedia

Singapore is on the top left; Muntok is not listed but was on Banka, the small island off the coast of Sumatra, to the south of Singapore.

Singapore I

“Disneyland with the death penalty” is how one wag described this beautiful island nation state at the southern tip of the Malay peninsula.

This is the first of two posts sourced from notes I took between 2013 and 2015 when traveling there on business. Similar to my notes on Zagreb, enough time has gone by to allow publication and, again, much has happened in the intervening years to grant a bit of perspective as to how much has changed and how much remains the same, particularly when it comes to human nature.

My knowledge of Singapore was thimble-sized, limited to her fall to the Japanese early in the Second World War (WWII). Sure enough, WWII is “everywhere” and, yet, “nowhere” in Singapore. 

Do a Brave or Duck-Duck search for “things to do in Singapore” or “Tripadvisor.com” and you’ll be regaled with botanical gardens, the Singapore Flyer, fine dining, shopping, city tours, boat tours, and walking tours. You’d have to really dig deep to learn where you can go to visit WWII landmarks.

This is understandable as the experience in WWII was supremely harrowing.

I sought opportunities to visit some of these over the years. My recollections follow.

The Old Ford Factory is the “site of the historic surrender of the British to the Japanese on 15 February, 1942, at the end of the Battle of Singapore. It was here that the meeting between Lieutenant-General Arthur Ernest Percival and General Tomoyuki Yamashita was held and the surrender document signed. Then British Prime Minister Winston Churchill referred to that event as the ‘worst disaster and largest capitulation in British history.”

The factory did produce cars beginning in 1941. It was Ford’s first motor car plant in SE Asia. As the Japanese made their way down Malaysia, the Brits converted the plant into a fighter plane assembly plant. But these planes were flown out of Singapore once things looked hopeless to them.

It is interesting to note that, unbeknownst to the British, the Japanese were outnumbered by almost 2 to 1. I also saw testimonials of locals back then who felt the Brits stationed there did not take the war seriously until it was too late. In addition, the same Churchill quoted above, also refused to send material help to SE Asia, because such was needed for Europe. Indeed scholarly research does point to the correctness of Percival’s complaint that allied help was being provided to the Communists in the Soviet Union to the neglect of the British here.

During the occupation, Nissan took over the plant and assembled military trucks for the Japanese.

After the war, Ford resumed operations there in 1947 and operated until 1980 when it was shut down and abandoned, only to be re-opened as a historic site in the first decade of this century.

I had to walk through it rather quickly since I had no free time other than lunch or late afternoon. However, even walking rather briskly, if the visitor focuses, he will come away having seen haunting photos, artifacts, and mementos; he will also have learned of heroic men and women, such as Dr. Monteiro, who developed an anti-diphtheria serum which saved many lives.

One is reminded of the depths of depravity man is capable of descending to; but also how, in the midst of death and deprivation, man seeks what’s truly is important: as death comes near and takes many whom we knew and loved, we are reminded to turn to Him Who is from everlasting to everlasting. There were several photos of church services the Japanese, surprisingly, allowed in the Changi prison camp. 

The first photo has stayed with me ever since. No commentary needed.

The second photo is a reminder that the movie, The Bridge on The River Kwai, is based on fact. It was known as the death railway. Many whom the Japanese conscripted from Singapore to go build it, never returned. 

One British survivor said, “Unlike the well-fed extras in the movie, the POWs were too weak to whistle the Colonel Bogey tune. Nor did they have any semblance of uniform…. We were routinely and barbarically tortured and many, many of us died, most cruelly.”

The third photo reflects in what condition those detained by the Japanese were found. Those who survived, that is.

The spartan nature of the Changi POW landmark is like a kick in the gut as it confronts the visitor with unspeakable suffering and horror. And, conversely, he is also confronted with faith in God even in the darkest moments: building chapels; celebrating services; praying; seeking God; painting beautiful murals which were lost for decades until someone noticed some color behind white paint. 

All this, and more, in the midst of starvation, torture, cholera, dysentery, rapine, and death.

A kind lady working at the bookstore, sought my attention and proceeded to tell me the following story:

A few months before, she had seen an old man looking at the books. He turned and asked her for a specific book. She suggested he walk through the exhibits first and then determine what book to buy. He, almost in disgust, said he had no interest in walking through. She asked why. “I was a prisoner,” he said.

She was a little surprised because, although he was old, he didn’t seem that old to have been a civilian or soldier in 1942. She recalled a gentleman who has come by twice already. He is 102 now [2014]; and he had been a prisoner. But this gentleman who now talked to her would have been a child.

And that’s precisely what he was at the time: an 8-year-old boy when he and his family were imprisoned. 

Well, eventually, he decided to walk through. While he did so, she looked into a book which contained the names and some of the records of the POW’s and, sure enough, she found not only his name, but the name of his father, mother, sister, and younger brother. All perished. 

When he came back out, he was more subdued. She gave him the book as a gift and pointed him to the names.

“Did you like the museum?” she asked.

His reply was a flood of uncontrollable tears.

The lady told me her story in hushed tones. I thanked her and expressed my gratitude for her service in honoring the memories of those now gone. And then I left, deeply moved and lost in thought.

The Changi chapel has a brass cross made in 1942 by a British POW, Staff Sergeant Harry Stogden. He painstakingly crafted it from scraps of brass and a used 4.5 inch howitzer shell. The cross was designed by the Reverend Eric W. B. Cordingley for St. George’s Church, which he had set up in an abandoned mosque in the India Lines section of the camp. Cordingley had taken the cross with him to the Death Railway, and also to Changi, setting up new churches wherever he went. After the war, he took the cross back to the UK.

Meanwhile, Staff Sergeant Stogden has succumbed to the brutal conditions and was buried at sea after the end of the war, having died onboard an American hospital ship. His wife had also died in 1942, leaving their three young children to be reared by relatives.

In 1997, Bernard Stogden, a son, learned of the cross, which by that time Reverend Cordingley’s daughter had returned to Singapore. When the current museum opened in 2001, Bernard was invited to come and place the cross in the chapel where it is today.

Finally, below is the story of Chen Kwan Yu, a civil servant. His story is representative of many.

“The trucks set off in a convoy, heading east. No one spoke … but as the grey concrete guard tower of Changi Jail came into sight, one of the men remarked that it looked as though they were going to prison. The trucks passed the jail, however, turned to the right, and continued on to the sands near Changi Beach.

“The men were told to get down, and were then tied into groups with lengths of thin telephone cable. ‘We were next told to move off towards the beach,’ Cheng says. ‘I saw a pillbox erected on the seawall of a demolished bungalow and in the slit of the pillbox one or more machine guns. When the lot of us were all on the beach, about 400 of us, the machine-gunning started. I was at the end of my group. As my companions were hit, they fell down and pulled down the rest of us. As I fell, I was hit in the face.’

“The machine-gunning stopped, and Japanese soldiers moved amid the carnage, bayoneting anyone who was still alive. Cheng shut his eyes. He had been hit on the nose and his face was covered in blood. He felt a soldier step on his body to bayonet his neighbour who had shown signs of life, but he did not touch Cheng.

“Cheng kept his eyes closed until he heard the trucks drive off. It was already night and in the moonlight he saw a lump of coral a few inches away and wriggled towards it, pulling against the bodies to which he was tied. He rubbed his wire bonds against the coral until they snapped, then sawed through the rope and freed his hands. He crawled out of the sea and staggered onto the beach.

“For two days, Cheng hid in the undergrowth, bathed the wound on his nose and drank from storm-water drains. He finally encountered a group of British soldiers sitting under a tree near Changi Jail. The soldiers gave him a biscuit and examined his wound. An officer scribbled a note on a piece of paper and told him to give it to the first ambulance that came along the main road. The officer gave Cheng a raincoat to sit on while he was waiting. The ambulance took Cheng to an Indian Army field hospital. ‘There my wound was dressed,’ he says, ‘and I went home.'”

There were many such stories of courage, faith, and amazing bravado. If you ever visit Singapore and have a choice between the nightlife and these landmarks, choose the latter.

One of several haunting photos in the Old Ford Factory Museum. This one has stayed with me for life.

The Bridge on The River Kwai was based on this, The Death Railway, built by thousands of English, Australian and other Allied POWs. Many who were sent, never returned.

Australian POWs after their release from Changi POW camp in Singapore.

A prisoner, Stanley Warren, a British bombardier, drew these magnificent images of the life of Christ. They were an inspiration and beacon of hope to many prisoners. These were eventually painted over and forgotten. Then, years later, someone noticed colors beneath the paint and discovered the treasures. Warren was eventually found and, after much persuading, returned to Singapore to renew the originals. His advanced age did not permit him to finish, but others were commissioned to do so.

The cross designed by Reverend Cordingley and crafted by Staff Sergeant Stogden.