This is the second of two posts from my journal entries from 2015 when I visited Croatia. The European Union is much in the news these days, especially Hungary, which shares an extensive border with Croatia and whose histories intertwine. Zagreb is about a 200 mile drive from Budapest. During my visit the folks I met reflected an ambivalence towards the EU’s thirst for sovereignty over their country: some were nonchalant about it; others in favor; others, against.
Below are my observations of nine years ago.
It’s a European city.
And I say that as a compliment. It’s “old” but clean. And it has suffered much, as has this entire area.
Remember that the Ottoman Turks had overrun this area all the way to the gates of Vienna back in the early 16th century (see the map and you’ll see the proximity between Croatia and Austria).
Repulsed at Vienna, the entire region then became a battlefield even into the late 20th century when the media was regaling us with “ethnic Albanians” stories.
The people are handsome and serious, and yet reflect more “joy” than what you see in the Middle East. Yet, it’s more of a subdued joy — hard to explain.
“No. None of my family was killed during the war. About 7,000 civilians — men, women, children — died. But in Serbia it was about 50,000 and in Bosnia it was 100,000. But, maybe one of us was killed after all. My father was 57 when this was finally over. But he had nothing left to live for. He lost everything: his land, his river, his life. He lost his life. He had to leave Bosnia and was settled here. I was working in Switzerland at the time and was able to help us rebuild here. But my father just ate, and drank, and did not care. He just wanted to be left alone and die. And he died at 67.”
“Dr. [name redacted] is a Geospatial engineer. Much demand for this type work in this security conscious age. He has contracts with Nato as well as Middle East countries. His office has an exercise machine (I see the handles “sticking out” behind the plants). He also has a large boxing bag and gloves…. But he’s not a boxer; he’s a karate master. His comments about the wars reflect the experience of many.
Oh. And bookstores. Must not forget the bookstores. Maybe a few more caffes than bookstores, but not by much. One of the bookstores had the [controversial] cartoon on display. I took out my phone to take a photo, but then thought I’d better not, as I might be mistaken as [someone] casing the joint.
Europeans have always been known to read much. That may be part of their problem. Socialists usually make better writers.
I entered one of the many caffes. Most of them have outdoor areas, which, believe it or not, are being used even in this weather [it was winter]. The folks are clearly accustomed to this. The coffee was very good. The ambience was great. The service was friendly. And they spoke English. It was like stepping back to the 1950s when life was a bit slower paced and folks could sit and talk and not worry about glancing at their phones.
Oh, and that’s another thing: in sharp contrast to China, I hardly see folks hunching over their phones. They have them, but are more courteous in using them when in public or when in the presence of other folks.
Folks eating or snacking indoors or outdoors, even in winter is a common sight. I noticed that many of the outdoor bars had portable fireplaces which helped keep folks warm. It was all quite cozy and “familiar”.
Haven’t seen a Starbucks yet; but they’d have a tough go, in my view. These places not only serve outstanding coffee, but bread, bakeries, wines, beer. They are different sizes, but all could pass for “mini-groceries” and so clean and cozy and inviting.
I “ran” out of the hotel for a power walk (is that what it’s called?). I sort of positioned myself from my hotel window view and headed out towards the cathedral. I kept getting calls and emails and SMS’s and WhatsApps, but was still able to hit several high points before rushing back.
(By the way, “everyone” in Croatia speaks English. On my last day, I asked the cab driver about that. He said that Croatian education requires that each student select a foreign language to learn and that just about everyone picks English. I mean, even the waiters and janitors had no trouble communicating with me or me with them.)
The food here is Mediterranean and well seasoned. [I had] a grilled veal plate [which] tasted as good as it looked. The wine was local and very good. Croatia has very nice vineyards, going back to the days before the birth of our Lord. During the Muslim occupation wine almost became extinct because of [a] pagan view of wine. However, the churches were finally able to persuade the Ottoman Turks, who were tolerant of Christianity, to at least allow its production for communion services. The Muslims recognized that wine had been used for church services for centuries, and decided to allow it for communion.
Hence their wine production continued. Else it would have been lost forever. Since the defeat of the Ottomans in the 18th century, wine production again flourished. But under the communists (Yugoslavia) small vineyards were stamped out in favor of big cooperatives which pushed quantity versus quality. After the fall of the communists, wines began to recover again. But then the wars of the early 90’s hit them again. Now small family farms are once again producing, emphasizing quality anew.
The Zagreb National Theatre was built in the mid 18th century, and the Astro-Hungarian emperor, Franz Joseph I was present at the unveiling. The hotel front desk lady was quick to tell me that Croatia was an important area of the Astro-Hungarian empire. I told her she ought to be very proud of that. She was.
I was intrigued by the Ban Josip Jelacic Square and statue. Josip is … on [a] deadly steed, with a sword pointing to the heavens. In Croatia he is considered a hero, a brave leader of many military campaigns in the mid 19th century. The Austrians considered him a rebel and viewed him with suspicion. The Hungarians considered him a traitor. You’ll have to Wikipedia him and decide for yourselves.
But the fact the communists tore down the statue in the late 40’s tells me he was probably an all right guy. The curator of a gallery was somehow able to persuade the Commies to allow him to store the statue in a cellar. Must have been some cellar! This statue is big; even dismantled. Anyway, after the fall of the iron curtain, the Croatians put him back in the square where you see him today.
There is a fountain in the square which was set up in the late 1980s. A part of the Medvscak Stream, which had been running under the sewers since 1898, was uncovered by workers as the city prepared for the World University Games held in Zagreb in 1987. This part formed the Manduševac fountain that was also covered in 1898. Amazing how things are covered and then forgotten for generations until discovered again.
Like other European cities, Zagreb has many Dickensian alleys, which intrigued me and which always tempt me to enter. I entered them in Toledo, but never had the time to do so again. In case any of you get any ideas: never enter them alone. In Toledo I was accompanied by 4 men, including a university professor who knew Toledo like the palm of his hand.
The building of the cathedral began in 1093 and was completed in 1242. I am always impressed by folks who begin something they know they will never see finished, but who believe their children and children’s children will see completed one day. It has been undergoing renovations and structural strengthening for the past 25 years.
The cathedral grounds used to be some kind of fort in past centuries, but I had no time to look into that.
The bells ring every morning at 6 AM and, believe me, it [is a sweet sound].
The famous Mimara museum with over 3,000 works of mostly Christian art by Dutch, Spanish, English, and German masters. I would not be surprised if Bob Jones, Jr. visited this museum, since he was quite a connoisseur of fine art. I wanted to visit, but long hours at work simply did not permit.
It’s been rainy and misty. No snow, but about 40 degrees or so. And yet … it’s OK. I felt fine walking around at night.
The Croatia National Theatre hosts performers such as Michel Legrand, who will perform 2nd of February. The Swiss symphony also will perform soon, etc.
Regret I was not able to visit any single place. No time. Maybe one day.
Mimara Museum
National Theater
Ban Josip Jelacic Square (statue seen on far right)
One of hundreds of caffes